Chapter 2008 The thickness of the crucible (3)

Cheesecloth is worn by poor people, you can tell at a glance. Muslin is worn by fashionable women in Paris. Before the Revolution, the aristocrats were extravagant and wore silk. Although muslin was extremely profitable, its finished product

The price is much cheaper than silk, not to mention it has better skin-friendly properties than coarse cloth, making it soft and comfortable to wear. Even men's clothing requires fine cotton for shirts.

The printing machine is also different from what Georgiana imagined when it was dipped in water with dye. It is made of many rollers. Depending on the complexity of the pattern, there are several rollers. Each roller has a color, similar to printing.

For newspaper machines, after printing one color, you need to print the next color. It has high requirements on the rollers, and it takes a long time to debug the equipment. However, it does not require much manual intervention when working. Once it is ready, just

The pattern on the roller will not be blurred due to wear, it can theoretically be used indefinitely, and there is no problem printing millions of yards of fabric.

Dieppe can make beautiful ivory carvings, and there is no problem with beautifully carved rollers, but as Chaptal discovered during his previous inspection in Ifto, the silk strands must be even before the strands can be dyed evenly. Cotton is more absorbent than

Wool is much better, but printing complex patterns can easily ruin a piece of cloth due to uneven dyeing. Therefore, even though Dieppe has the advantage of plate making, it still cannot print and dye cloth with very complex patterns.

British patent law only protects patents for 14 years. When John Bellon's patent expired, Parliament did not allow him to extend the patent. Instead, the textile industry donated more than 10,000 pounds to him as compensation.

Samuel Crompton's mule machine could not be patented at all, because it was half Arkwright's water-powered spinning machine. He had only two choices, either to make it public or to destroy it.

Crompton's approach was to make it public, and his colleagues also compensated him, totaling 67 pounds, six shillings and six pence. Part of it was still unwilling to pledge, so he would probably get even less.

This kind of spinning machine is highly confidential. The factory window is very small. If you want to take a peek, you have to climb up a ladder and you will be discovered easily.

However, even if he could guard against outsiders, he could not guard against his own people. In 1791, a worker named Robert Peel wanted to partner with Crompton, but he refused. Later, Robert Peel opened a spinning business by himself.

Factory, he became a member of the House of Commons in just a dozen years, and his son also entered Oxford to study.

Crompton's father is a farmer, and Arkwright is a country priest. According to the regulations of the medieval guild, they must first work as apprentices for two or three years to be promoted to helpers, and after two or three years, they can become master craftsmen, and then they can start their own businesses.

.In the later stages of the guild, it became increasingly difficult to obtain the master craftsman license to start an independent business. You had to create a "masterpiece" in front of the guild leader to restrict the assistants from becoming master craftsmen.

Moreover, the guild does not allow the use of tools beyond the conventional ones. In order to prevent vicious competition among members, the quantity, quality, and price of each member's products are strictly controlled to prevent price-cutting competition. Even if there is technological innovation, the technical jurisdiction remains with the guild.

In your hands, not in your own hands.

In early-developing wool textile industry centers such as Italy, guilds have been in place for much longer than in Britain. At the same time, while the British guild system has been basically eliminated, there are still remnants of the mainland guild system.

As Chaptard said, without that kind of freedom, technological progress is impossible. As long as we continue to stick to tradition, Marseille soap will still be the same recipe as it was during the Louis XIV period in two hundred years.

The wool textile industry guilds monitor each other, while the cotton textile industry prevents each other from peeking in and learning from each other. Although they have many similarities, they take completely different paths.

Gram weight is an important indicator of woolen wool. Usually, the higher the gram weight, the better the quality and the more expensive the price. On the contrary, fabrics with low gram weight are cheap and of poor quality.

Just like the cloths that Georgiana held in her hand before, they have the same weight, but the areas are different. The weight divided by the area, the weight per square meter is also different. Maybe piece of cloth A looks bigger than piece B.

, but the density of a is lower than that of b, so the number of longitude and latitude lines used in a is also less.

The other is the count. If one pound of cotton spinning can spin 8,400 yards of cotton thread, this is a 10-count yarn, and 16,800 yards is a 20-count yarn. The yarn is much thinner. Generally, only those with a count of 40 or more can be called

High-count yarn requires high-quality raw materials and high-end equipment to be spun. Under the same weight, the density of high-count yarn is much denser than that of low-count yarn.

As for the issue of width, take curtains as an example. Some windows are slender and fall from the ceiling to the floor. Such windows require very long curtains, that is, narrow fabrics. If the windows are very wide, use several narrow fabrics.

It is made of spliced ​​cloth. If the window is very long and not high, use a wide cloth. One piece is enough and no splicing is needed.

In short, the "water" in this industry may be deeper than the sea. If she told the admirers of Napoleon Bonaparte in the 21st century that she discussed the issue of curtains with their idol, they would probably die of laughter.

But she felt that this was a glimmer of hope for "peace". The muslin was very thin, but there was no standard in either Britain or France.

Crompton, who invented the mule machine, later opened a small factory. The factory owners who made a fortune with the machine he invented were afraid of competition and squeezing him out. After Crompton invented the new carding machine, Crompton took it away.

It was a disaster. He was living in poverty and Parliament did not allow him to go abroad. The commercial spies sent by Napoleon looked for him. At this time, the factory owners donated 500 pounds to him.

As for the steam engine assembly engineer who invented the gas lamp, it was impossible to poach him. After the signing of the Treaty of Amiens, Bolton, his sons and the Watt brothers published announcements in the Birmingham Gazette and London newspapers. From now on, the factory will not be open to the public.

showed, and the assembly engineer also refused all high-paying invitations because of his loyalty to Soho.

They visited for about two hours, until it was almost time for this shift of workers to leave. After dinner, they were taken by local officials to a house that looked pretty good.

It is in the Baroque style, with cool and gorgeous marble floors, thick velvet beds and tapestries. It used to be a noble holiday villa.

The only problem is that it may not have been used for many years, and all the chimneys are not ventilated. Napoleon must light a fire wherever he goes. If Constant lit the fireplace, she estimated that everyone in the room would choke on the smoke.

die.

So he got angry.

Last time he got angry and trashed the office, but this time he was more like sulking, as if regardless of him, he would be able to adjust his emotions after a while.

Not to mention Bonaparte being a man, Georgiana also felt upset, but fortunately, this messy situation finally found a thread.

"Aha!" Georgiana had an idea.

"What's wrong?" he asked listlessly.

Georgiana walked to him, covered his ears with her hands, and told him the secret alone.

"Imagine you are taming a strong horse, Leon. It is not that easy to make it obey you."

He held her in his arms as if she were a humanoid heating stove.

"Dong dong"

There was a knock at the door.

"Madam, there is a gentleman from England who wants to see you." Feige said.

"Let him wait," cried Bonaparte, and then there was no sound outside the door.

"Why are you busier than me?" He complained.

She kissed his hair. His hair was very soft. I wonder what kind of quality this was in the eyes of the carders.
Chapter completed!